Traffic aside, Palermo is perfect at any time of the year

Having picked up our hire car at Palermo Airport, we tapped our hotel address into the GPS and bravely entered the never ending stream of traffic. Apart from the fact that we were running on fumes after a 30 hour trip from Australia, we were suddenly driving on the ‘wrong’ side of the road (for us); it was getting dark; and the battery on our device (with the GPS directions on it) was down to 4%. I do not have a reputation for being the greatest navigator at the best of times, however to be fair (to me), it is really hard to navigate on no sleep when you are holding the charger in the socket of the phone because it keeps slipping out, whilst 10,000 cars are coming at you from every direction and there are apparently no road rules – at all.

Our arrival in Palermo was a little stressful.

We had flown from a Melbourne summer to a Sicilian winter for a 6 day whirlwind trip with only one goal in mind – to fulfil our Life List dream of finding an old Sicilian palazzo to buy, renovate and live in for 3 months of each year. Our plan is to live one long eternal summer – to follow the sun around the world.

But more on that in a later article. For now, let me share my highlights of visiting Palermo in winter, which offers a different perspective on this wonderful city.

1. The Streets
   As we wandered along Palermo’s long promenades and through narrow alleys and small streets – all paved in marble slabs – we were surrounded by laundry flapping from balconies attached to a mix of pastel coloured buildings. The city’s atmosphere is punctuated by the sounds of sirens, traffic and vendors calling out their goods and prices for the day. The city is a rich tapestry – with centuries’ old buildings, statues, and fountains everywhere you look, punctuated by graffiti, modern art posters and street art. I think this sums up the unique, complex identity of Palermo.
2. The Sweet Life
   From cassatelle di ricotta – soft ricotta and chocolate chip filled dough, sprinkled with icing sugar; to pistachio gelato; to hot chocolate so thick that your spoon stands up in it; to ricotta cakes and ricotta filled cannoli; to almond biscotti – Palermo is a sweet lover’s heaven. We ate sweets for breakfast, lunch and after dinner.
3. The Market Food
   The Ballarò market is the oldest (over 1000 years) and largest market in Palermo. In my very limited spare time between looking at houses, I took two walks through this magnificent market to see stall upon stall of fruit and vegetables, olives of every variety, spices, pickled vegetables, fresh fish, and ready to eat local specialties. I had a conversation with a local stall holder (he spoke Italian and I spoke English, and both of us used lots of hand gestures, but somehow we managed to completely understand each other) – where he showed me the lemon risotto (presented in a large lemon rind), orange risotto, eggplant pasta and arancini (stuffed rice balls) – which he let me sample. I was serenaded by a fish monger and bought jars of pistachio paste for my kids.
4. The Churches
   Two key era’s shaped Palermo’s past: the Arab and Norman periods. During Arab rule Palermo was one of the most magnificent cities in the Islamic world. After Sicily was conquered by the Normans, the Normans chose Palermo as their capital. Rather than erasing the past by demolishing and rebuilding the city, the Normans merged and incorporated the diverse artistic traditions of the existing Arabic, Jewish, Byzantine, and Roman culture and architecture.There are an estimated 85 churches in Palermo and the Cattedrale di Palermo showcases this unique fusion of Norman-Arabic, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles. We enjoyed a rainy Sunday morning in the Cathedral watching as the nuns tried to corral a group of rowdy pre-schoolers in a Sunday school session. We also visited the Church of Jesus, a stunning baroque church adorned with rich marble decorations which are reminiscent of an iced wedding cake.
5. The Accommodation
   An absolute highlight was a few days spent at Palazzo Genuardi, located centrally on Via Ruggiero Settimo. This boutique hotel is owned and run by Selene Governale. After studying economics at University and working in her father’s family business, Selene convinced her father to allow her to convert the Palermo headquarters of the business into a Bed and Breakfast boutique hotel. After proving herself in running a small B&B in Lampalusa, her father eventually agreed to Selene’s proposal. The renovations took place between March and September 2024 and Palazzo Genuardi opened for business in December 2024.

Selene’s vision for her hotel is to welcome visitors from all over the world to explore the beauty and history of Palermo. Palazzo Genuardi boasts 3 rooms and 2 suites all with balconies and hand painted ceilings. The tiles on the floors and the paintings which adorn the walls are all original and have been retouched. The rooms are filled with a mix of modern furniture and antiques – many sourced from Selene’s extended family.

The hospitality shown to us by Selene and Joshie was wonderful – beyond simple directions and helpful hints, they went out of their way to make our stay special. They even upgraded us to a suite for our final night so that we could enjoy some extra luxury.

We also spent a night in the truly opulent Villa Igiea, a 5 star hotel housed in a 19th-century palazzo with views across private gardens and the Tyrrhenian Sea. Constructed in 1900, the Florio family transformed Villa Igiea from a private palazzo into one of the most famous retreat in Sicily – boasting a guest list of artists, Hollywood elite, royalty – and us!

Decorated with palatial Art Nouveau interiors, long sprawling staircases, frescoed walls, plush beds covered with wall hangings, and opulent flower arrangements, this hotel is breathtaking. We were offered an upgrade to a room with a private terrace, which we happily accepted. Despite it being winter, the weather was mild and we ate dinner on the romantic terrace watching the sun set. Breakfast at the Florio Restaurant was next level – not only the array of food available in buffet style, but the stunning dining room which is truly reminiscent of a palace.

We loved Palermo in winter and plan to return in May – a month in Sicily in spring seems just the ticket. And of course, we will be spending more time exploring this fascinating city, eating local delights, taking on the traffic and then resting each night at the beautiful Palazzo Genuardi.

Written by Kate Christie.
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